Why Car Engine Cranks normally, but fails to start (continued)
4. Carburettor
There are two likely reasons why petrol is present in the pipe, but not finding its way into the manifold:
- A blockage at the carburettor needle and seat, or
- A defect — probably a disconnected link — in the carburettor plunger.
To rectify these faults the carburettor will have to be dismantled.
5. Fuel supply
If no fuel is emitted from the pipe an air lock, blocked petrol line or faulty petrol pump is indicated. Disconnect the flex, ible petrol pipe to the petrol pump and, if you have a tyre pump, use it to blow air through the petrol lines.
Place a rag soaked in cold water around the petrol pump to cool it. If this still does not help, remove the pump and then re-install it without the gasket between the pump flange and the engine block. This will increase the stroke of the pump and may enable you to continue on your journey. If not, garage assistance will be necessary.
6. Ignition system test — conventional type
More and more vehicles are now fitted with electric ignition systems which usually require specialist attention. Faults on conventional systems can be rectified by following the advice below.
Disconnect the low-tension wire on the side of the distributor — it is the only wire there — and with the ignition switch on, draw the wire terminal across the distributor casing. If there is no spark, disregard the remainder of this paragraph and proceed to 7. If the wire produces a spark replace it, remove the distributor cap and crank the engine, noting whether the rotor arm turns. If there is no movement of the rotor, a defect in the distributor or camshaft gears is indicated and the assistance of a garage will be required. If the rotor turns, however, carry out the following checks:
The ignition points should open to approximately 0,4 mm (roughly the thickness of a calling card) and if they do not, they can be adjusted by loosening the screw which secures the fixed point to the distributor base plate.
With the ignition on, the points should produce a slight spark when the engine is cranked or when they are opened and closed manually with the points off the cam. If they do not, a break in the wire leading from the side of the distributor to the ignition points (called the `pigtail’), a leakage to earth in this wire or dirty ignition points is indicated.
If necessary, repair the leads and clean the contact surface of the points with a nail file if one is handy. If you still cannot obtain a spark at the points and you have made sure that there is not a leakage to earth on the moveable point arm, a short-circuited ignition condenser is indicated.
To test this, disconnect the condenser wire where it is attached to the points and again test for spark at the points. If the points now produce a spark, the condenser is faulty and will require replacement.
If your car is fitted with a radio it may have a condenser fitted to the outside of the alternator. Remove this condenser and install it either on the inside or outside of the distributor to enable you to proceed on your journey.
7. Ignition system — conventional type
If no spark appears when the wire is drawn across the distributor casing then one of three faults is indicated:
- There is a break in the wire between the ignition switch and coil, or in the low-tension distributor wire which you have disconnected. If this break is in the wire between the ignition switch and coil, connect a wire from the battery to the low-tension wire on the ignition switch side of the coil (on British cars this terminal is marked ‘S.W.’) and start the engine.
NOTE: This leaves the ignition permanently switched on and the wire should be disconnected again to stop the engine.
WARNING: Connecting this wire to the distributor side of the coil will result in the failure of the ignition points.
The ignition switch is faulty — to start the engine, fit an emergency wire as above.
The coil is defective and must be replaced.
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