Repairing an Auto Dent
1 Clean the whole area first, whatever the type or degree of damage, as this may show up secondary bruising.
2 If you use a steel faced hammer to knock out any kinks, make sure the edge of the hammer does not hit the metal, or you will get more dents!
3 For initial rubbing down use a coarse grade of paper to get to the base metal. Remove all the rust.
4 If there are pockets of rust into which the emery paper cannot reach, use a chemical rust remover. A jelly type is best because it does not run.
5 Start to rub down the door crease as for the gouge in the wing, but use a medium and then fine grade of paper to blend the edges of the repair into the paintwork.
6 When the damage has been thoroughly rubbed down, use a sharp metal object to score the metal. This gives the filler a better chance to ‘key’ in.
7 After scoring, clean the whole area with white spirit on a clean cloth. This will remove any traces of wax polish which might otherwise prevent adhesion.
8 When you mix the filler, remember that all things being equal, the more hardener you use, the faster the paste will act. So make sure you are ready before you mix it.
9 Push the filler firmly into the dent using a flexible spreader (plastic ones are usually supplied). Apply in layers until it stands well proud of the surrounding metal.
10 Use a surform or rough emery paper for initial rubbing down. Then change to a medium grade of wet and dry emery paper with plenty of water.
11 When you reach this stage you may find some small pinholes. You can fill them in with more filler, but the best remedy is to fill them with cellulose stopper.
12 Make sure that when repairing the edge of the wing, enough filler stands proud of the wing to allow it to be contoured to match the existing edge.
13 When carrying out the pre-spray rubbing down, start with a medium-fine grade of wet and dry (about 300 grade) and run water over the repair to check its contours.
14 During this stage take your time and use plenty of water. When this stage is finished, the filler must exactly blend with the surrounding paintwork.
15 Finally use an extra fine grade of wet and dry (400 grade) to rub down the surface of the painted area. Start masking by putting on strips of tape.
16 Lay the paper onto a flat surface and stick masking tape onto it allowing the tape to overlap about half its width.
17 Stick the overlapping portion of the tape to the tape already in position. Take special care around joints and body trim.
18 Spray with primer from a distance of about 12in. After the first coat, inspect it for blemishes and if necessary rub down with 400 grade emery paper.
19 If the primer is satisfactory, apply several light coats of final colour. When spraying, keep the aerosol moving from side to side.
20 When the paint has thoroughly hardened, usually in about 7 days, use a mild abrasive polish to blend the new paint in with the old.
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