Car Parts and Accessories

Adding a canopy certainly helps to protect your luggage. There are two types of canopies available: 1) the colour-impregnated, UV-stabilised, epoxy resin (or glass-fibre) canopy, and 2) the steel canopy. Both have their advantages and disadvantages, depending on your needs. (more…)

It is important to cover these conditions together as they invariably occur together. Throughout most of Southern Africa, we are faced with fast-flowing rivers and streams that quickly become torrents during the rainy season. Mud invariably follows, and can be dangerous. (more…)

At one time, the market was flooded with cheap Chinese and Russian jerry cans. These cans were made from inferior metal that rusted easily and caused serious damage to engines because rust contaminated the fuel. It is therefore better to invest in the more expensive South African or German jerry cans. Even so, when pumping petrol or diesel over to the main tank, you should always cover the filler hose with an old nylon stocking to filter out any unwanted particles. (more…)

Mesh cover for the radiator No 4×4 vehicle should be without a mosquito metal mesh cover fitted to the radiator. On a Land Rover, it can be attached to the grill; on a Land Cruiser, a light frame into which the mesh is mounted can be added to the front of the radiator. Most other vehicles will use either of these methods to cover the radiator. The mesh cover effectively prevents grass seeds and insects from clogging up the orifices in the radiator. (more…)

Safety

There is a lever on the moving foot of the jack which reverses the body lifting mechanism. It points up for lifting and down for lowering. Never leave the lever in the down position with a load suspended on the jack. Only have it in that position when operating the handle for lowering. If the vehicle is knocked the jack could slip or work itself down the column, which is not only inconvenient but can be extremely dangerous as the handle will be thrown up and down by the weight of the load. (more…)

THE HIGH-LIFT JACK

Designed for lifting heavy machinery and loads it was almost inevitable that the high-lift jack would become an essential tool for the off roader. It is probably the single most useful piece of equipment you can carry on your vehicle but, like any mechanical device, it must be treated with a certain amount of respect. The main use to which it can be put is for direct self-recovery; indirectly, it can be modified to operate as a winch and a more mundane use is for lifting the vehicle when changing a wheel, Other, rather specific, uses include breaking tyre seals when in remote regions, as a clamp, and for spreading or closing bodywork. The jack should come with an attachment that bolts on to the end of the column at a right angle. This can then be used as a clamp. (more…)

When you are buying a 4×4 for regular use in the bush, you will need to decide whether the vehicle’s suspension system should be fitted with leaf or coil springs.

There is no doubt that both leaf and coil springs perform well. In the past, the leaf spring has been more reliable, and of a better quality, than the coil spring, but the latter has become equally reliable, with some manufacturers recently changing from leaf to coil springs. In station- wagons, for example, this change was probably implemented to enhance the comfort of the ride. (more…)

If you are planning to embark on an extended trip to Egypt through East Africa, it is advisable to opt for diesel, as petrol is often not available, of a poor quality or lacking in the additives to which engines in Southern Africa are tuned. Diesels are more economical in terms of fuel consumption. On the other hand, if you are going to drive around Southern Africa — South Africa, Namibia, Zambia, Zimbabwe or Botswana — then either petrol or diesel is fine. (more…)

Each class of vehicle has been rated according to the Kaoko Scale, a rating system I devised for the first 4×4. We were looking for a way to simplify the conditions the offroader is likely to encounter. Each class of vehicle has been rated according to the range of conditions and terrain it can handle. (more…)

Certain vehicle parts are more prone than others to breakage or wear in off-road conditions. The following are the items that tend to leave you with a problem.

Shock absorbers: Use only the shock absorbers prescribed for your vehicle, or heavy-duty, off-road shocks. Do not use those types which can be inflated.

Fuel tank: Always carry a fuel tank repair stick in case you get a hole in the fuel tank. If you do not have a repair stick, try to block the hole with Sunlight soap. (more…)

Perhaps you bought a vehicle for alternatively just for some off-road fun. Whatever the reason remember that 4×4 vehicles are not only costly to buy but also to run. Many people buy them because of the slower depreciation value and the fact that, being a more robust form of transport, they carry on when most two-wheel drive vehicles are reaching the end of their lives. It is only after buying the 4×4 of their dreams that many people discover the high cost of running it. Preparation before and brief maintenance after off roading is therefore essential to keep costs to a minimum. (more…)

Freewheeling hubs

These are only fitted when the vehicle has part-time FWD. whilst driving in only two-wheel drive the front prop shaft becomes disconnected so that no drive goes to the front wheels. However, as the front wheels rotate so the half-shafts, front differential and prop shaft rotate as they are still connected. The friction from this dead weight will increase fuel consumption and increase wear on these parts. When disengaged the freewheeling hubs will disconnect the wheel from the half-shaft (and therefore the Jiff. and prop shaft). (more…)

As with any specialist subject matter, terms grow and develop within it. Enthusiasts take this still further, creating ‘in’ words that few outsiders really understand. However, this need not be so complicated.

The transmission system

It is the transmission system of the off-road vehicle that makes it so distinct from others and gives it its versatility. (more…)

It is best to avoid driving across a slope. If you have to do so keep your speed low and constant, checking the ground ahead. Look out for any bumps on the upper side and dips on the lower which could dramatically increase the angle. The maximum angle of tilt specified by manufacturers for their vehicles refers to controlled conditions and they do not take into consideration deviations in terrain. (more…)

The depth to which you can safely wade will vary from vehicle to vehicle. To obtain some idea of this consult your vehicle handbook. Although you should try not to exceed the stipulated depth for your vehicle, most in actual fact will go through deeper water if really necessary. Ensure that basic waterproofing and wading plugs have been checked. (more…)

Although one can go to considerable expense to waterproof an engine completely (necessary only for long periods of total immersion), the general off roader will still benefit from keeping water out. It is a good idea to minimise the chances of water entering the electrics even when on road and with the knowledge of possible wading ahead a few precautions are essential: (more…)

Whatever vehicle you have, the performance of it will ultimately be down to the ability, or otherwise, of the tyres to grip the ground and to perform well in the terrain you are trying to cross. There is not a tyre made that is perfect for all conditions; the advice we give is based on personal experience and the collected views of 4×4 off-road drivers from around the world, rather than the findings of scientific research. Thus it is offered to you in that spirit. For this reason we cannot be held responsible for any events or circumstances arising from the use or misuse of this information. (more…)

The wheel cylinders are attached to the brake back-plates and operate the brake shoes against the brake drum. Wheel cylinders are sometimes referred to as slave cylinders, being subordinate to the master cylinder. (more…)

Brake-adjustment should be carried out every 7500 km (5000 miles) to compensate for wear of the friction surfaces. With the car jacked up, the adjusting screw should be turned until the wheel can no longer be turned by hand. The adjuster should then be backed off until the wheel rotates freely. (more…)

1 Clean the whole area first, whatever the type or degree of damage, as this may show up secondary bruising. (more…)