Auto Parts and Car check, what to check before going on a long Trip
Don’t let a breakdown ruin your holiday
A roadside breakdown can ruin a well-planned holiday—so it is worth taking a little time to check over your vehicle before setting out. It is obviously impossible to foresee every type of breakdown that could occur; but by following the check list you should be able to avoid some of the more common roadside problems.
Remove one of the rear wheels and check the thickness of the brake pads. If the pad is less than 2 mm thick, seek advice.
Before a long trip your tyres should have at least 3 mm to 4 mm of tread depth left, there should be no cuts in the tread area or sidewalls and no signs of abnormal wear on the tyre tread. Make sure that the spare is in good condition, that the jack is working and that the wheel spanner fits and is capable of loosening the wheel nuts. Inflate tyres to slightly above their normal pressures and do not deflate them to ‘correct’ pressures on the road.
Seat belts
Make sure that the seat-belt mountings are secure and that the belts are not frayed.
With the vehicle stationary, check the steering freeplay by moving the steering wheel from side to side. If there is more than one eighth (of the circumference) free movement from side to side or if the steering is noisy, investigate.
Brakes
Make sure that the brakes stop the car evenly with no excessive travel on the pedal. The pedal should not be spongy and no noise should be audible. If any faults are found, the system should be checked and repaired by an expert.
Make sure that the clutch is not on the verge of slipping. With the vehicle stationary, press the brake pedal with the toe of your right foot while pressing the accelerator pedal lightly with the heel of your right foot. With the transmission in low gear, let the clutch out. The engine should stall immediately. If not, consult an expert.
Check all pedal pads for wear and renew if necessary. A foot slipping off a pedal could be dangerous.
Check not only the condition of the wiper blades but also the wiping action of the blades (the blades should clean the glass on both the forward and back movements). If not, change the blades. Wash the windscreen with soap and water —do not use a silicon-based solvent.
Electrical system Make sure the battery is secure, that it has been serviced and that there is no corrosion on the terminals. Corrosion can be cleaned off with a solution of bicarbonate of soda in water. When the battery posts are dry a coating of enamel paint—not over the battery casing —will prevent further corrosion.
If your car is not fitted with an electronic ignition system, remove the distributor cap and check the ignition points. At the highest point of the cam, the point gap should be slightly wider than the thickness of a calling card.
Check that all the lights and indicators are working properly and, if you are towing a caravan, make sure that the lights have been readjusted to compensate for the load of the van on the rear of your car.
Cooling system
Check the fanbelt for cracks and tension (you should be able to deflect it 1 mm to 1,5 mm in an up and down movement between pulleys) and carry a spare. Check the water hoses for signs of perishing or leaks and, with the radiator cap on and the engine running at part throttle, check for any tendency for the hoses to collapse inwards. Change any hose that is suspect. Make sure that the radiator cap is sealing properly and that the flow of air to the radiator is not obstructed by a number plate.
Keep a record of when the air and oil filters of your car should be changed. Not only do intervals vary but the nature of your driving and the conditions under which you drive will determine when filters should be changed. As a rule, change oil and air filters every 20 000 km; more frequently for dusty driving conditions. Do not forget to change or clean the fuel filter of the vehicle on a regular basis. This may be a separate “in-line’ filter or a sieve at the fuel pipe connection at the carburettor.
If your car is fitted with an automatic gearbox, check the oil level when the engine is hot. The gearbox has a dipstick —much like the one for checking the engine oil level —near the rear of the engine under the bonnet. Allow the engine to idle, and then, with the handbrake on, move the gear selector two or three times through the gear range before placing it in ‘park”. Without switching the engine off, withdraw the gearbox dipstick and check the level. Call in expert advice if the oil has discoloured to any extent or if it has a strong smell of burning.
Possibly related posts: (automatically generated)
Auto Parts and Car check, what to check before going on a long Trip
- Checking the Car Basics, Before Hit on the Road
- Basic Steps to keep your Car Serviceable
- Runs Rough or Dies: Auto / Car, Truck Jeep Engine Keeps Dying Repair (14-20)
- Changing the Auto Car Oil & Oil Filter
- Motor Easy DIY replace Disc Brakes
- Car Won't Start, why? How to get your Auto Car checked and Repaired by yourself? step (19-30)
- Auto Parts Guides: Brakes the advantage of Discs
- Auto Brakes/how they work
- Jeep, Truck, Auto Touring and Towing /Roof Rack, Carrying Extra Luggage
- The essential Fluids for the proper running of your Auto Car's Engine
on November 13th, 2008 at 3:14 am
If you are looking for a Hummer brake upgrade, Hummer cold air intake, duty winch then you have come to the right place. … Brake Disc
on November 13th, 2008 at 4:58 am
Therefore, there are different systems and parts employed in your vehicle that should function in the most appropriate way for you to have a worthwhile ride all the time. … Automotive Parts