Car Parts and Accessories

If pushing, screaming, jumping and kicking have all failed, try connecting another car’s battery to that of your car. You will also need a driver in the other car. Park the second car as close as possible with the two batteries on the same side. Avoid any physical contact between the two cars; there may be freak little currents flowing about that are best avoided.

Most jumper leads have a red lead (positive) and a black lead (negative). Open the caps on the two batteries and identify the positive (+) and negative (—) terminals. Make sure that your car’s battery is properly connected and that the ignition of your car is turned off. Start the engine of the other vehicle. First clip one end of the red lead to the positive terminal of your car’s battery (the discharged battery) and then to the positive terminal of the other battery. Then clip the one end of the black lead to the negative terminal of the battery which is to supply the power and then clip the other end of the black lead to the negative terminal of the discharged battery. Ask the driver to gently raise the revs of the second car and start your car in the normal manner.

If it starts, let it run at normal speed and disconnect the leads in the reverse order—first black from your car then the other vehicle, then the red from the other vehicle and lastly from your car. Don’t just let your car stand idling there, get in and go for a drive so that the battery can be charged. To see whether the battery is now okay, pull off onto the side of a road (on a down-hill), switch off the engine and try and restart. If the engine starts, you should be okay. If not, well, push start the car and drive to the nearest battery centre or workshop and have the battery and the charging system checked.

If jump-starting did not get you going and you are positive that it’s due to battery failure you may need to phone a battery centre to deliver a new battery. Alternatively phone your mechanic.

Towing a car

Not a fun job! Especially with other drivers hooting, shouting and making obscene signs because you’re slowing them down. But it may just happen to you, so best you be prepared.

First, hazard lights on — for the tower (the car and person towing) and the towee (the car and person being towed). All cars have towing hooks in the front and the rear; locate them and do not attempt to attach the towrope to any other protrusion. You will damage the car, or cars. It is best to use a synthetic, slightly elastic rope to absorb some of the jerking. The distance between the cars (therefore the length of the towrope) may not exceed 3,5 m and the rope must be made clearly visible (with a red flag) if longer than 1,8 m.

The towee must be aware of a few things. The brake servo (techho speak for the car’s brakes) works only when the engine is running, therefore extra pressure is required for braking. But the handbrake is mechanical and will function normally; use it if necessary. If the car has power-steering, steering will be incredibly difficult and will require extra force.

Once the towing rope is securely tied, the towee should turn the ignition key to free the steering wheel and allow use of the indicators and wipers if needs be. Place the car in neutral. The tower must go easy on the clutch, braking and accelerating — generally just take it very easy with everything. Use hand signals to indicate to the towee what your intentions are before doing anything — like slamming on the brakes. Ideally the towee should do all braking. The conditions for the towee are stressful and the reaction space small. Take care.

Cars with an automatic gearbox should not be towed on all fours. There is a perfectly sensible technical reason for this, but basically it’s really bad for the car. In this case, you need to phone a towing company.

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