Car Parts and Accessories

Step 5-15. Replacing the thermostat.

Place a pan beneath the radiator drain petcock. Drain enough coolant to lower the level down below the top radiator hose. Save the coolant—you can reuse it if it is not too old.

Step 5-16. Removing the thermostat.

You usually do not need to disconnect the top radiator hose. Use a socket wrench to remove the two bolts holding the thermostat housing to the engine. You might have to tap the housing lightly with a rubber mallet to break the gasket seal. Lift off the housing and remove the thermostat. Notice how the thermostat was positioned in the engine opening. (more…)

Step 5-7. Testing the coolant.

To test the coolant, carefully remove the radiator cap and place the end of the tube on the hydrometer into the coolant. Use the bulb to draw coolant up into the hydrometer. Some hydrometers use floating balls; others might have a float with a scale. The reading on the hydrometer indicates the coldest temperature to which the coolant provides protection.

Step 5-8. Cleaning debris from the radiator.

Remove leaves and larger pieces of debris by hand. Wash away smaller pieces with a garden hose. Try to spray from the back of the radiator to the front. Carefully straighten any bent fins with needle-nose pliers. The fins are soft, so be careful not to damage them. (more…)

Your car’s engine can self-destruct without proper cooling. The main parts of the cooling system are the radiator, pressure cap, thermostat, water pump, hoses, fan, and fan belt. The systemshould be filled year-round with a 50/50 or 60/40 mixture of antifreeze and water. A 50/50 mixture provides prote^ction to about-34 degrees Fahrenheit, while undiluted antifreeze freezes at about-8 degrees. If the coolant level is low, or any of the other components fail, the engine can overheat.

If the temperature light comes on (or the gauge starts to rise) and the air conditioning is running, first turn off the air conditioner. Allow about a minute for the light to go out. If it doesn’t, find a place to park, set the parking brake, put the transmission in PARK or NEUTRAL and raise the hood. Now gently press on the gas pedal to increase the idle speed of the engine slightly. The engine should start to cool. If not, turn on your heater and blower. The heater pulls some of the heat away from the engine. If the temperature gauge drops, continue on your way, but at a slower speed. (more…)

Step 6-9. Removing the auto lens from a brake,turn-signal, parking, or backup light.

Remove the screws holding the retaining ring or the lens itself, and gently lift off the lens. Be careful not to tear the rubber gasket.

Step 6-10. Replacing an auto brake, turn-signal, parking, or backup bulb.

Remove the faulty bulb from the socket by pushing in and turning the bulb a quarter-turn counterclockwise. Install the new bulb by aligning the pins with the proper slots inthe socket, then pressing the bulb in the socket and turning it clockwise tolock it in place. (more…)

Most cars have a variety of lights to illuminate everything from the glove compartment to the street in front of the car. Fortunately, troubleshooting the lighting system is not too difficult. Nearly half of all lighting problems are caused by corroded bulb sockets, loose or corroded ground connections, bad bulbs, or blown fuses. Other problems can be caused by a loose alternator belt or a faulty relay or flasher.

Step 6-1. Getting to an Auto burned-out headlight.

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the trim. You should see additional screws behind the retaining ring. These screws adjust the headlight—don’t disturb them. Hold the headlight with one hand and remove the retaining ring. (more…)

Step 7-10. Changing a tire.

Pull off the road well away from traffic and park the car on level ground. Turn on the hazard lights and put the transmission in PARK, or in REVERSE for manual transmissions. Set the parking brake and turn off the engine. Check your owner’s manual for details pertaining to your car. Remove the spare tire and jack.

Step 7-11. Blocking the tires.

Block the wheels at the end opposite of the flat tire to keep the car from rolling. (more…)

Step 7-3. Checking the air pressure.

Check the air pressure before you start out, when the tires are cool. Never exceed the maximum inflation pressure printed on the side of the tire. The tire pressure recommended for your car is usually found in the glove box or in the owner’s manual. Buy a pencil-type pressure gauge and leave it in the glove box. To check the pressure, unscrew the valve cap, fit the end of the gauge over the threaded end of the valve stem, and press in. If you hear any hissing, you don’t have a good seal and the reading will not be accurate. When the air enters the gauge, a marked scale pops out of the gauge, displaying the pressure. If the pressure is too high, use the small stud on the gauge to press in the pin in the center of the valve stem. Bleed off a little air and check the pressure again. If the pressure is too low, drive to the nearest gas station and add air. (more…)

Inspect your tires regularly for any excessive or unusual wear in the tread. The way the tread wears indicates any problems with inflation or front-end alignment. The inspection can be made in three simple steps: First, kneel down and visually inspect all four tires. Then slowly run your hand over the tread to feel for any patterns of feathering (Step 7-5) or cupping (Step 7-7). Next, check the pressure in all four tires with a pressure gauge. Don’t forget the spare tire. Make sure it’s ready for use.

Know how to change a flat tire (Steps 7-10 through 7-17). When buying tires, shop around. The most expensive place to buy tires is probably at a new car dealership, followed by gas stations. Check the sports section of your local newspaper for specials. You’ll probably find the best buys at independent tire dealers that carry several different brands. (more…)

Your car’s air conditioner consists of four basic parts: a belt- driven compressor powered by the car’s engine; an expansion valve; the evaporator; and the condenser. The entire system is sealed and contains pressurized refrigerant. Because the system is sealed, any repair work should be left to a professional. Do not, for example, even attempt to tighten or loosen any fittings. The refrigerant is extremely cold. When exposed to air, it instantly freezes anything it contacts, including your skin or eyes. Although refrigerant is normally nontoxic, the gas becomes very poisonous, even fatal, if ignited. You can, however, take steps to make sure your air conditioner is working properly or determine when to have it serviced. Operate the air conditioner about once a week (even in the winter) to keep the internal parts lubricated. (more…)

Hydrometer, battery An instrument used to measure the specific gravity of electrolyte to determine the battery’s charge state.

Hydrometer, coolant An instrument used to measure the ratio of antifreeze and water in the radiator.

Jack The device used to raise the car to change a tire.
jumper cables Two color-coded cables used to conduct electricity from the working battery to the dead battery.

Master cylinder The device in a hydraulic brake system that distributes hydraulic pressure to each wheel for braking.

PCV valve Positive crankcase ventilation valve. The PCV valve recycles exhaust gases back into the engine to be burned.

Jump-start Using a booster battery to start a car with a dead battery. (more…)

ABC-type fire extinguisher A multipurpose, dry-chemical fire extinguisher used to control paper, electrical, or fuel fires.

Air filter: The device that traps dirt and dust to keep it from entering the carburetor.

Alternator:The device that operates electrical accessories and keeps the battery charged.

Antifreeze: The common name for ethylene glycol, a chemical which, when mixed with water, is used as an engine coolant.

Battery: The device that stores electrical energy.

Carburetor: The device that vaporizes fuel and mixes it with air to form a combustible mixture. (more…)